NeoStrata |
| Founded in 1988 by Eugene Van Scott a dermatologist, and Ruey Yu a dermatopharmacologist. |
| How do they work |
| Reduce corneocyte cohesion at lower levels of stratum corneum |
| Modulate desmosomal attachments between corneocytes |
| • enables specific transient exfoliation response vs. keratolytics |
| • normalize keratinization process |
| stratum corneum has increased flexibility and reduction of corneocyte build up |
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| Benefits of AHAs |
| Normalize keratinization (cell turnover) process |
| • more flexible, smooth stratum corneum |
| • may prevent formation of clogged pores |
| Stimulate process of epidermal cell renewal |
| • return to a more youthful state |
| • reduction of appearance fine lines & wrinkles |
| Moisturize |
| • humectant properties |
| • reveal naturally moisturized cells |
| Dermal effects reported in the literature |
| Adjunctive Uses of AHAs |
| Acne: (cleansers, solutions, gels) |
| • AHAs used in combination with topical retinoids and other drug therapies |
| Keratosis pilaris: topical AHAs, peels |
| Melasma: AHAs + HQ, peels |
| Rosacea: benefits reported with peels, PHAs |
| Surface texture: photodamage, superficial acne scars - AHA peels, home use AHAs |
| Pre and post procedure: microdermabrasion, laser, peels |
| Enhancement of therapeutic effect |
| • patented technology |
| • many potential opportunities exist |
Heliocare |
| FERNBLOCK: ORIGIN & DEVELOPMENT |
| FERNBLOCK: Polypodium leucotomos extract (PLE) |
| Originally an aquatic plant |
| Anti-inflammatory agent in the treatment of dermatological conditions |
| Extract is obtained from selected plants under carefully controlled conditions |
| No pesticides or chemicals |
| Strict laboratory procedures according to pharmaceutical quality standards are employed to ensure complete safety and efficacy |
| 4 new levels of skin protection |
| Anti-oxidant |
| Immunological |
| Cellular DNA |
| Skin architecture |
| Anti-oxidant |
| Fernblock carries out a strong anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting the generation of free radicals and ROS caused by UV radiation |
| “PLE was found to exhibit interesting anti-oxidant properties against photooxidative stress involving the generation of reactive oxygen, lipid peroxidantion under in vitro reactions” |
| • 55% superoxide anion |
| • 10% singlet oxygen |
| • 50% lipid peroxidation |
| “PL showed an anti-oxidant effect” |
| • 31% superoxide anion |
| • 43% singlet oxygen |
| Immunoprotection |
| UV radiation has an immunosuppressive activity, reducing the skin’s immunosurveillance system and thus its ability to defend against bacterial, mycotic and viral infection, and, more seriously, tumours. |
| Immuno-suppression occurs mostly through: |
| • death and deactivation of Langerhans cells |
| • migration of Langerhans cells to lymphatic glands without antigens |
| Langerhans cell depletion can play a role in the development of skin cancer |
| DNA damage & photocarcinogenesis |
| Fernblock reduces damage to DNA caused by UV radiation: |
| • reduces number of sunburn cells |
| • reduces number of thymine dimers |
| “The number of sunburn cells per mm of epidermis was significantly lower in PLtreated skin when compared with PL-untreated skin at 24 hours (p = 0,03).” |
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| less sunburn cells, maturation disarray, microvesiculation, and vacuolization |
| “The amount of thymine dimers was significantly lower in PL-treated skin compared with PL-untreated skin at 24 hours (p < 0,001). The significant decrease in thymine dimers by PL is therefore promising because this is the first report of an oral anti-oxidant to decrease DNA damage, and it suggests that PL might be able to prevent long-term skin damage such as skin cancer.” |
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| less thymine dimers |
| Skin architecture preservation |
| “Treatment of the cells with PLE prevented UV-induced morphological changes in human fibroblasts, namely disorganisation of F-actin-based cytoskeletal structures, coalescence of the tubulin cytoskeleton …” |
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| Sun protection: sunscreens |
| Topical sunscreens: The ideal requirements |
| • Protection against UVB |
| • Protection against long-wave UVA |
| • Reactive Oxygen Species scavenging capability |
| • Inclusion of enzymes that activate the cellular DNA repair systems (Heliocare Gel formulations) |
| • Stability and safety of filters. |
| Heliocare topical sunscreens meet all of the above criteria |
Lumixyl |
| Lumixy is formulated using decapeptide 12, the peptide of 10 amino acids. |
| As a cosmetic, it has been formulated as a topical cream as well as a serum for Dermalinfusion applications. |
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| Lumixyl is a tyrosinase inhibitor |
| Other popular tyrosinase inhibitors: |
| • Hydroquinone |
| • Kojic Acid |
| • Licorice Extract |
| • Arbutin |
| How does Lumixyl work? |
| Lumixyl binds to the tyrosinase enzyme, preventing it from latching on to tyrosine so that it is unable to produce melanin. |
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| • Lumixyl has been shown to be 17 times more effective than HQ in inhibiting tyrosinase! |
| • Tyrosinase inhibitors, including HQ, regulate the production of pigment, they do not bleach existing, superficial pigment. |
| • Tyrosinase inhibitors are often used in combination with exfoliants including retinol glycolic acid to yield dramatic, visible results in the short term. |
| • Unlike other tyrosinase inhibitors, Lumixyl can be used safely and effectively for the long term management of hyperpigmentation. |
| In vitro tyrosinase inhibition by Lumixyl |
| Colorimetric detection of dopachrome, an intermediate involved in melanin production, in the absence / presence of Lumixyl. |
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| In vitro inhibition of intracellular melanin production |
| Melanin was measured spectrophotometrically at λ = 475 nm. |
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| Intracellular tyrosinase activity |
| Mushroom tyrosinase activity was measured as a function of dopachrome concentration in the absence and presence of Lumixyl |
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| Lumixyl improves the appearance of mild to moderate hyperpigmentation. |
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