Founded in 1988 by Eugene Van Scott a dermatologist, and Ruey Yu a dermatopharmacologist.
How do they work
Reduce corneocyte cohesion at lower levels of stratum corneum
Modulate desmosomal attachments between corneocytes
• enables specific transient exfoliation response vs. keratolytics
• normalize keratinization process
stratum corneum has increased flexibility and reduction of corneocyte build up
Benefits of AHAs
Normalize keratinization (cell turnover) process
• more flexible, smooth stratum corneum
• may prevent formation of clogged pores
Stimulate process of epidermal cell renewal
• return to a more youthful state
• reduction of appearance fine lines & wrinkles
• humectant properties
• reveal naturally moisturized cells
Dermal effects reported in the literature
Adjunctive Uses of AHAs
Acne: (cleansers, solutions, gels)
• AHAs used in combination with topical retinoids and other drug therapies
Keratosis pilaris: topical AHAs, peels
Melasma: AHAs + HQ, peels
Rosacea: benefits reported with peels, PHAs
Surface texture: photodamage, superficial acne scars - AHA peels, home use AHAs
Pre and post procedure: microdermabrasion, laser, peels
Enhancement of therapeutic effect
• patented technology
• many potential opportunities exist
FERNBLOCK: ORIGIN & DEVELOPMENT
FERNBLOCK: Polypodium leucotomos extract (PLE)
Originally an aquatic plant
Anti-inflammatory agent in the treatment of dermatological conditions
Extract is obtained from selected plants under carefully controlled conditions
No pesticides or chemicals
Strict laboratory procedures according to pharmaceutical quality standards are employed to ensure complete safety and efficacy
4 new levels of skin protection
Fernblock carries out a strong anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting the generation of free radicals and ROS caused by UV radiation
“PLE was found to exhibit interesting anti-oxidant properties against photooxidative stress involving the generation of reactive oxygen, lipid peroxidantion under in vitro reactions”
• 55% superoxide anion
• 10% singlet oxygen
• 50% lipid peroxidation
“PL showed an anti-oxidant effect”
• 31% superoxide anion
• 43% singlet oxygen
UV radiation has an immunosuppressive activity, reducing the skin’s immunosurveillance system and thus its ability to defend against bacterial, mycotic and viral infection, and, more seriously, tumours.
Immuno-suppression occurs mostly through:
• death and deactivation of Langerhans cells
• migration of Langerhans cells to lymphatic glands without antigens
Langerhans cell depletion can play a role in the development of skin cancer
DNA damage & photocarcinogenesis
Fernblock reduces damage to DNA caused by UV radiation:
• reduces number of sunburn cells
• reduces number of thymine dimers
“The number of sunburn cells per mm of epidermis was significantly lower in PLtreated skin when compared with PL-untreated skin at 24 hours (p = 0,03).”
less sunburn cells, maturation disarray, microvesiculation, and vacuolization
“The amount of thymine dimers was significantly lower in PL-treated skin compared with PL-untreated skin at 24 hours (p < 0,001). The significant decrease in thymine dimers by PL is therefore promising because this is the first report of an oral anti-oxidant to decrease DNA damage, and it suggests that PL might be able to prevent long-term skin damage such as skin cancer.”
less thymine dimers
Skin architecture preservation
“Treatment of the cells with PLE prevented UV-induced morphological changes in human fibroblasts, namely disorganisation of F-actin-based cytoskeletal structures, coalescence of the tubulin cytoskeleton …”
Sun protection: sunscreens
Topical sunscreens: The ideal requirements
• Protection against UVB
• Protection against long-wave UVA
• Reactive Oxygen Species scavenging capability
• Inclusion of enzymes that activate the cellular DNA repair systems (Heliocare Gel formulations)
• Stability and safety of filters.
Heliocare topical sunscreens meet all of the above criteria
Lumixy is formulated using decapeptide 12, the peptide of 10 amino acids.
As a cosmetic, it has been formulated as a topical cream as well as a serum for Dermalinfusion applications.
Lumixyl is a tyrosinase inhibitor
Other popular tyrosinase inhibitors:
• Kojic Acid
• Licorice Extract
How does Lumixyl work?
Lumixyl binds to the tyrosinase enzyme, preventing it from latching on to tyrosine so that it is unable to produce melanin.
• Lumixyl has been shown to be 17 times more effective than HQ in inhibiting tyrosinase!
• Tyrosinase inhibitors, including HQ, regulate the production of pigment, they do not bleach existing, superficial pigment.
• Tyrosinase inhibitors are often used in combination with exfoliants including retinol glycolic acid to yield dramatic, visible results in the short term.
• Unlike other tyrosinase inhibitors, Lumixyl can be used safely and effectively for the long term management of hyperpigmentation.
In vitro tyrosinase inhibition by Lumixyl
Colorimetric detection of dopachrome, an intermediate involved in melanin production, in the absence / presence of Lumixyl.
In vitro inhibition of intracellular melanin production
Melanin was measured spectrophotometrically at λ = 475 nm.
Intracellular tyrosinase activity
Mushroom tyrosinase activity was measured as a function of dopachrome concentration in the absence and presence of Lumixyl
Lumixyl improves the appearance of mild to moderate hyperpigmentation.